Rapa Nui (Easter Island, part of Chile)

The picture from the plane shows the only real beach on the island and also how small the island is. The black dot on the beach close to land is a run of 7 statues, Nua Nua.

On locating our driver we received a garlanded welcome.

The highlight of waiting for our bags was the drugs sniffer dog selecting two business class travellers. Very professionally and tactfully executed. They must just have sat down in the wrong part of Santiago as they were released quite quickly.

 

Hotel Gomero is a little oasis, 10 mins walk from the only town of Hanga Roa. Some Fawlty Towers characteristics, however. We're close to the airport but one plane a day will not disturb us.

A walk to the town locates our first statues. The 2 far statues the Ahu (platform) are Taurira. Not sure that the chap facing the sea has any significance.
The local youth like to surf.

 

Two Windows Caves (Ana Kakenga)

Having spend an unexpectedly large amount on a map of the island, we purchased empanadas and water from a local shop and set off on a circular walk.
We saw a nice lunch spot near the coast with a little island offshore.

We were just going to continue our walk when a non-English speaking Chilean couple (below) indicated that we should go down a hole in the ground.

 

We were understandably cautious, but they insisted on coming with us and lent us one of their torches.

Glad to see light after some difficult footwork, we saw light and the passage forked as we arrived at the spectacular Dos Ventanas Caves (Two Windows).

Walking back we were pleased to see the exit - don't think we'll take up caving!

 

 

Communication was not straightforward, but I wrote down this web site address and indicated that their picture would be posted.

If you have a look, thanks so much for a most unexpected excursion, and for offering to drive us to another cave slightly further north.

 

Statues - the first batch

The Ahu(plinth) is the important bit, used in funerals.
The Moa (statue) is more of a personal statement by the commissioner.
All or most originally had a red stone hat that is often missing.
Two conveniently coloured stone quarries exist.

 

And now for something completely different...

These were a bit of a surprise. They only exist in one small area.
The font and back can be completely different.

The ones on the shore may be rejects.

 

 

In search of cave paintings (via statues)

We set off in search of some rock paintings to the south of Hanga Roa. The coast is attractively rugged with the many rocks causing rough seas.
Ahu Riata is a large chap, only restored to his former position in the 1990s.

Having made a couple of sorties down to possible locations, we finally spotted a well worn path and found the very clear paintings. Click the image for an enlargement.
The cave also contained beautiful natural art in the volcanic rock.

 

 

 

Cultural dinner and floorshow

We arrived for our cultural meal at our favourite restaurant.
After a papaya smoothie, we were advised that the pit outside was ready to be uncovered - this was not really what we were expecting.
Outside the spades were at work uncovering the steaming pit,a cloth and then banana leaves and newspaper were removed and a tray of lots of whole fish appeared.
Next sweet potatoes were removed to a bowl from the large volcanic pebbles, and finally trays of chicken and pork were found.

With some fresh salad also provided, we ate the most delicious tasting meal. Each dish tasted quite different due to their different additional ingredients, and there was a pleasant light smoky flavour.
Apparently it had all been smoldering away for about 3 hours.

 

The band were skilled and pretty tuneful, and the dancers has spent some time choreographing their act.

The best female dancer could shimmy faster than any I've ever seen - but it only looks anyway impressive on the video, so interested parties will have to wait until our return.

The best chap was pretty acrobatic too - more lightly dressed than some of the other men!

An enjoyable evening.

 

Premier league statues

 

We hired a car and drive up to the beach in the north (seen in the aerial shot as we landed). The group of moai on ahu Nua Nua are the black spot in the sand. Resurrected in 1979.
Ature Huki, located nearby, was raised in 1955.

We had a refreshing swim in the nice warm sea and a rest under the shade of palm tree (mindful of the rather ripe looking coconuts directly above us).
We relocated to a nice copse of trees down the road for shaded lunch.

 

The prone statue is actually the tallest moa ever raised over an ahu. The size of his red hat gives a good indication of this.
The next collection of stones is allegedly "The Navel of the World". It would appear that sitting on a small stone and placing hands on the large one is the thing to do.

 

Tongarkiki is the largest shrine on the island, containing 15 huge statues.
The hats got separated from the statues in the 1960 earthquake/tsunami. A choice of hats is therefore available for the discerning moa. Single moa at the top of the hill - he doesn't get a mention anywhere.

The Rano Raraku quarry was still in full production when statues went out of fashion. Notice the huge prone one top left - zoomed in below. Hats were quarried a short way south in the red stone quarry.

 

We are now statued out!

 

Caverns: Ana Te Pahu

 

We saw the sign indicating this cave, the most important. Finding it in a hollow took a little time. It is very large with light from a hole in the roof at the far end.
There are lots of platforms in the cave - presumably ceremonial in function.

Nearby were more small caves with some platform building.

 

Another day, another set of statues. No hats left lying around.
This lot are unusual as they are looking at the sea, unlike all other large groups, and all but the occasional single statue.

A drive up to the caldera of the southerly volcano Rano Kau. To the north west, across the airport runway and the town of Hanga Roa, the volcano of Rano Aroi can be seen. To the north east the volcano of Pua Katiki can just be seen.
The caldera of Rano Kau contains water and grassy islands.